Messina

An overnight stop after sadly missing out on the experience of getting on a train that is loaded onto a ferry from Reggio to Messina. We stopped at a local bar upon arrival for an afternoon sip on some prosecco and mini cakes with the locals on a random street corner.

Fratelli la Bufala: Trio of bruschetta to start of tomato with oil and parsley, vedura greens with a kick of chilli and fried sausage mince, cheese and anchovies that are caught locally and marinated. Cacio e pepe [a traditional Roman dish] for me with a good helping of cracked pepper and a thick spaghetti with a spiced napoli sauce placed on a base of basil pesto for Chaun.

We were recommended by our B&B host Giovanni to try another two restaurants – Farine a pizzeria and another called Datterino. If only we had enough time, but if you ever find yourself in Messina you have a few tips from a local to start you off!

As we venture off to the seaside we quickly darted off into a cafe at the train station for fresh giant paninis filled with pecorino cream cheese, rocket and prosciutto. Ciao Messina

Taormina

Restaurant Trocadero: When a restaurant serves you shots of san bitters and mini bruschetta upon arrival, you know the food is going to be tasty! Handmade pasta sadly not served with a smile but the chef here nailed the pasta even through this is a steakhouse. Burrata filled ravioli with either a sun dried tomato and basil sauce or a burnt butter and sage. Serve this up with wine from Mt Etna and a local digestive that was a dark brown colour and tasted like medicine.
We returned to this restaurant a few days later with our friends Maria & Joey. The chef served up 4 different pastas including a rich carbonara, ragu, amatriciana and a huge food envy moment for ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta with a pork sausage mince and mushroom sauce.

Shaker Bar: This is a street food snack bar serving up different suppli. When in Sicily you must get the pesto and pancetta.

Arco Rosso: You guessed it, another bowl of pasta!!! Tonights pick, gnocchi with a mass of gorgonzola cheese and fresh parsley. So rich and creamy and went down a treat mopping up the remaining sauce with some crusty bread.

Sweet, sweet Taormina

La Gelateria, Taormina: Finally, a real Sicilian cannoli! Freshly filled with the creamiest smooth ricotta and dipped in crushed pistachio nuts/chocolate chips/candied cherries, take your pick!

Wherever you wander in Taormina you will find a street cart selling ice cold granita made from fresh fruit/syrups. Melon granitas while you wander around ancient ruins? Only in Italy. We found one cart that served Aperol spritz served with a scoop of citrus granita in it!

Bam Bar: YES! YES! YES! This is what originally swayed me to visit Taormina. After spending the day trecking to a waterfall, pinching figs off peoples trees and opening locals home gates to park our cars this was a perfect finish to a hot day. The absolute best granita in the world! take a seat and watch the menu change as different flavours such as rockmelon, strawberry, lemon, kiwi, almond, chocolate, peach, raspberry and nutella are displayed as they are made. Order one topped with fresh whipped cream or chocolate mousse or mix 2 granitas up and enjoy by scooping up the granita with fresh brioche buns. The granita was smooth like sorbet not icy like the granita we know. Top pick had to be peach topped with cream!

Casata Siciliana is an iconic cake that is found all over Sicily, A vanilla cake, ricotta mixed with candied fruit and covered with a sweet royal icing

Nove: The house of pistachio! Everything from sauces, creams, pastes, desserts, suppli, gelati even a station where you can crack open nuts in store. We devoured a waffle rolled into a cigar shape filled with pistachio cream and some home made ice cream that was churning in the front counter of the shop and topped with more crushed pistachio when served. The best pistachio ice cream I’ve ever had.

Taormina Cooking School

Spent the afternoon with Chef Massimo starting off with an espresso and a tour of one of the local fresh markets. Hidden down a small street we came to what was like a mini Vic market with a number of fresh produce stores a fish munger and butcher. The amount of tomato varieties here was my favourite parts. The butcher was mostly stocked with beef and fish that stocked nothing but what is caught locally that morning e.g. red or pink shrimp.

On the menu;
Sicilian caponata – fried eggplant, red peppers, zucchini, all added to onions, celery, oil, almonds, capers and raisins
Meatballs – beef with just a little breadcrumb, heaps of lemon and egg, pressed between two fresh lemon leaves before grilling and served with roasted peppers
Stuffed zucchini flowers – with ricotta, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Dipped in a batter made with sparkling water and fried until golden brown
Handmade strozzapreti pasta – rolled carefully over a metal rod! Served with a sauce made of roman cherry tomatoes, onion, garlic, basil and EVO and finished with baked ricotta grated on top
Roast potatoes – a good helping of olive oil, fresh tomatoes and olives
Baked calamari rings – olives, capers, tomatoes and almonds all tossed in fresh breadcrumbs before baking
Whole fish – cooked in a pan with white wine, tomatoes, oil and parsley, We only cooked one side then finished off the other half just before eating.

Needless to say we rolled out of there full of delicious food and a sample of a homemade wine that weirdly smelt like banana lollies!!!