If there is one reason other than the food to travel
to Siena it is for the Palio di Siena horse race!

3 amazing days in the beautiful town of Siena. Thanks to Dario Castagno, I become an honorary member of the Contrada Bruco (the caterpillar) and immerse myself in the celebrations and heartache of a nose hair loss. Click on the links below to experience it for yourself!

Pronto, via!

Starting off your trip with lost luggage is never how you want to start your feasting trip, but how to make it all better I hear you say? GET ICE CREAM!!!
My go to is always pistachio and god damn it made me happy. The one thing I truly love about the Italians is that a gelati store at the train station is 100% normal.

After 27hrs of flying, 2 trains and a taxi later I checked into the beautiful town of Siena. Cannoli bar and fruit shop right at my doorstep, things were looking up! Spent the day wandering through the marbled town, sour lemon granita in hand to attempt keeping cool. The night before the Palio is filled with feasts of the different districts [aka contradas] that are clearly noted walking down the streets, flags flown proudly. The dinners are prepared by the members of the contrada to celebrate the horse and blessed jockey.

Arriving at the Bruco HQ upon sundown we were greeted with a sea of green and yellow, people singing and copious amounts of red wine being laid out on huge share tables. Just a casual 1800 people for dinner, no problems!

To start, a cup filled with crushed toasted bread, whipped ricotta and roasted cherry tomatoes followed by a bowl of penne ragu that tasted like the mince was the insides of Italian sausages! Next up, a parchment filled goodie bag of beef, potatoes, carrots, tomatoes and slices of green olives. Top off the night popping bottles of prosecco, fruit tarts and all of the youth singing into the late hours.

Viva Bruco!

Race day is here!!! Morning nectarine, espresso and a huge bottle of water and away we go. The day consists of musicians from each district parading through the streets following the prized horse that is to represent their contrada.

Joining the locals on the church steps and a slice of pizza, everyone stopped to watch what was soon to be the winning horse and king of Siena strolling by! I followed along the procession to where each contrada performs ancient flag twirling for the priest.

I soon learnt that the square in witch the race was to take place would be shut off and made my way out into the 35 degree heat to claim my viewing spot. Should I have paid for a grandstand seat? probably, but I met some interesting folks out in the arena! Stands were set up selling bags of salty pain chips and popcorn only to be dismantled and vanish from site once the crowds streamed in.

After hours tanning [sunblock in my bag somewhere near Florence] the parade concluded, grandstands filled and tension buzzing in the air from a handful of false starts the palio began! 3 crazy laps on the dirt roads saw one jockey come off his horse as others raced over him. This sneaky horse then went on to win by a hair in front of team Bruco, winner announced with the flag of the contrada hung out on display. WHAT A RUSH!

Mangiare!

So by this time I am famished and ready to feast at restaurant Le Logge, recommended by my friend Natalie. A 5 course dinner accompanied by wine, yes yes please!

We started off at a local bar as we waited for emergency services to exit the lane way. Aprivito is one of my favourites, grab a drink and help yourself to a smorgasbord of antipasti delicacies. The bar had paper cranes hanging from the ceiling that you could just watch the replay of the race through.

Once seated by Mirco in a prime seat for people watching the first course was presented; tomato and watermelon salad. The tomatoes had been peeled and dressed in extra virgin olive oil and the melon topped with dried capers, what a combination! Secondi; fresh creamy burrata that you dressed to your liking (oil, salt, pepper) I’m pretty sure I had dreams about this cheese!
Pistachio petso pennette dusted with dried raspberries. The nuts giving a crunchier texture and a fresh finish from the berry. Next up, roast beef with zucchini salad. These delicate ribbons of beef were so rich and simply dressed with some good EVO! Last up before my stroll home, torta alle noci with chocolate sauce and lemon gelato. This reminded me so much of an almond cake my Nonna always had, smiles all around.
Both the wine and EVO were produced by Giami Brunelli.

The walk home tonight had my mind buzzing and excited to eat my way through 5 weeks of dreamy Italian god damn good food!